Thursday, May 8, 2008

Concealing is Revealing


This sentence literally means “Conceal blemishes to reveal the real beauty.” Concealers have always played a vital role in makeup whether it could be for photography, films, television {serials} or anything. Now days they not only hide blemishes and dark circles but also impart luminescence to the complexion to wake the skin up.
What I love about the concealers that are available today is their textures and how effortlessly they glide on revealing true beauty.

How to choose a CONCEALER?

Concealers come in a variety of textures for a variety of skin types. They come in liquids, crèmes and potted or with a wand or in a twistable tube or like a pen etc. You name them and the beauty industry makes it available for you.

The first and foremost thing about a concealer is to find out the purpose for which we’re buying one. We could buy a concealer to hide number of things right from under eye circles and tiny blemishes to a deep and ugly looking scars, it could range from anywhere in between. With a consistency thicker than a foundation it solves a number of skin conditions and what we have is a wonderfully glowing skin.
With so many options to choose we should think of the following things while buying a concealer: -
- our budget and affordability
- quantity of product available in the container
- consistency
- purpose of using a concealer
- occasion for which the concealer is used.

To check whether we have chosen the more than perfect concealer here are a few tips: -

1. Check the color of the concealer in broad daylight as daylight is the harshest light source available but the truest.

2. You can either test it on the forearm to see whether it conceals veins or directly on the face (if hygienic conditions permit).

3.The shade of the concealer should be one shade or two shades lighter than the foundation if used or exactly the same color of the skin, while choosing one for dark circles. To hide blemishes it should nearly match the skin color and tone.

4.Preferably buy a concealer that looks yellow as it flatters almost all complexions. Concealers with pink, green, white undertones should be better left for experimentation.

5.Use opaque concealers to cover the areas that are harder to cover but do not use them unnecessarily as they look very heavy on application and might look blotchy and unnaturally hideous.

6.I prefer using a concealer after the foundation as it gets a base to sit on plus the concealer doesn’t move from the place applied which could happen if a foundation is applied on the top of a concealer. I like to seal my concealed areas with a translucent powder to make it stay longer. My preference is of a powder puff than a brush.

7.It’s important to dab on a concealer instead of rubbing and the best motion used for it is “Stippling Motion.”

8.What I love are luminizing concealers like YSL’s touché éclat that hide and yet highlight.
Sometimes in brands like Clinique and Shiseido you get duo concealers which could be mixed and matched. Try them instead of single ones as they are handier.

9.Professional makeup artists use concealer palettes but on various skin types. Its not necessary to buy those until and unless you are going to practice makeup artistry.

Note: - Concealers shouldn’t be confused with color correctors as though they might sound the same but the latter is more for professional purposes which is not the essence of this topic. And the images put here are only for displaying.

The best concealers available in the Indian Market with their pros and cons in a brief: -

+ Illuminating concealers: -
It’s the best concealer that you would see in the market and the first formulation of its type being YSL’s touché éclat. To flatter Indian complexion YSL color creators have taken the pains to create more yellow based ones for our market and so is a darker color {No.4} as well.
Similar concealers are Lancôme’s Flash Retouche, Dior skin flash radiance booster pen {which is a bit too shimmery for my tastes} and Clarins Instant Light Perfecting Touch.

+Liquid Concealers: -
They go light and smooth and provide a sheer to minimum to medium coverage depending on the formulation. In this category my heart was won by two fantastic concealers Lancôme’s Effacernes which is a waterproof under eye concealer and Dior’s Hydrating concealer which is goopy but too good. Others in this category that are my personal favorites are Shiseido The Makeup Concealer, L'Oreal Paris Tru match concealer (although only 3 shades are available in India).Pupa cosmetics make some awesome liquid concealers for people with medium budget. Some concealers come with a wand similar to the one used in glosses. Since the wands deliver a lot of product its better to take them on the back of hand first.

+Crème concealers: -
These are opaque concealers with an oil base and the best performing concealers that can actually be seen. These are used in films and television for the coverage they provide is flawless. Kryolan leads most of the concealers in this category. They appear heavy but blend smoothly though the result that is achieved is slightly heavier and opaque than its other brothers. They are available as sticks or in pans or in a lipstick casing. Oriflame concealer sticks are wonderful. They are not too pricey and do a good job.

+Concealers in tiny pots: -
These are a different variety of concealers. They very hydrating and feel fluidly even though they come in a pot which makes them different. It’s something in between an airy mousse texture and creamy opaque texture. They solve most of the problems but do not give a very heavy coverage. No companies in India have them but abroad you could check for brands like Makeup Forever and Stila who have them as their best sellers.

+Concealer Pencils: -
Actually I hate this concept because you have to sharpen the pencils all the time. Chambor cosmetics make them but they are totally not handy. Although the twist up pencils do well. They can be used to hide tiny blemishes and spots on the face. But foundations do the purpose, don’t they?



Ref: - Kevyn Aucoin



How to apply concealers?

I’d write the technique that is universal. Special concealer brushes having synthetic bristle (that are not too soft or not too hard) are available in the market. The key is to take a very small amount on the brush and apply it in the desired area and dab not rub. The heat of the fingers pushes the concealer into the skin. Other way is to use the side of a foundation brush to apply concealer and then blend it in downward and outward strokes.
Concealers are a boon to people having dark circles but I’d always advice them to get an under eye cream first. The big mistake that these women do is over applying the concealer which makes the dark circles more prominent. Creamy formulas beat over liquid ones to hide very dark under circles but if not set with powder immediately they crease in the wrinkles.
Applying an eye primer increases the longevity of the concealer, help them stay put and blend well. Just dab on some primer like MAC prep n prime for eyes to prime up that area. Avoid applying concealer over foundation on the eye lids. Apply directly because the foundation on the eye lids may slip and take the concealer along with it.
A small tip that I learnt from experts of Kryolan teaching corrective makeup for mature women is to apply the concealer directly onto the wrinkle and then dab on side ways. This fills the wrinkle and gives a much youthful appearance.
MAC makes very good concealer brushes and so does Shiseido, though the latter one is affordable. I discourage using fingers directly as it contaminates the formula and bacteria breed very easily on them. The smaller side of the makeup sponge helps in pushing the concealer and blending it in but I’d keep a sponge only to apply foundations.
I’d recommend using yellow concealers sparingly in day light and adequately in evening lights. In a place with fluorescent lights, a yellow concealer might look muddy. There’s where a pink concealer could come handy. In such situations I’d suggest applying a yellow concealer, blending it well and then applying some pink undertone based loose powder over it to considerably illuminate that area.











Makeup tutorial by an eminent artist Elke Von Freudenberg would give you a better idea on using concealers. This video is taken from YOUTUBE.com. Please look for some videos I saw there.

I hope this article serves you as a guide to buy concealers. Do not get carried away with brands. Buy a concealerthat looks good on you and not because the SA says so.

Hope you have a wonderful, blemish free time.

Ciao




1 comment:

  1. very very very informatie!! "thumbs up"!!
    especialy the diagram... it says it all!!

    ReplyDelete

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