Sunday, January 24, 2010

Foundation Fixers…



I have been continuously discussing about foundations in almost all the posts but I never get satisfied with it. The reason being foundation in any possible formulation is the most important step in getting the makeup right. Concealer is a part of foundation too which should not be neglected too.


Today I want to dedicate this post for discussing different foundation for different skins and then giving different ways of foundation and concealer application with foundation in different situations.


FOUNDATION THAT SUITS YOU…..


The reason why a "foundation" is important is because foundation is the bridge between your skin and your makeup. If foundation goes wrong, the entire makeup is haywire. But isn't it important to choose the right foundation that suits you?


  • Are you dry skin? Then you need a foundation that locks in moisture and emollient rich. Powder bases could make the skin even drier and mattifying foundations are a total no. I love moisturizing foundations with medium to buildable coverage that have optical diffusers to blur out dryness and wrinkled appearance of dry skin. Treatment foundations with anti ageing benefits are best suited for dry skins. An "oily" foundation is best suited for dry skin.
  • Are you combination skin? This being the most complicated skin type you'd get, it needs moisturization on the cheeks and needs to combat oiliness on the T zone. Advanced technologies have brought in foundations that do both the things that I've described. Still an oil free foundation is advisable with powder application only on the oily areas of the face.
  • Are you oily skin? The foundation tends to disappear on long hours of wearing due to its dissolution in the natural oils of the skin. I suggest sheer to medium oil free foundations that stay matte and absorb excess oil and stay longer and combat unhealthy shine. Powder foundations are excellent for these skin types.
  • Are you sensitive skin? Cosmetic companies like Clinique make foundations for sensitive skin that are non comedogenic, allergy tested and does not cause skin irritation. If Clinique is not your choice, I advise mineral foundations that are more and more in vogue nowadays for their performance. Mineral foundations are a rage because they glide seamlessly on the skin and cover imperfections going flawlessly on the skin without showing too much. Only the thing I don't like about mineral foundation is they can be too shiny due to mica particles and is not very good for oily skins.


TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES


Foundations are available in different formulations and so are the tools that can be used to apply them.
  • Foundation sponges
  • Foundation brush
  • Dual fibre brush
  • Goat hair foundation brush
  • Powder foundation brush


IDEAL FOUNDATION APPLICATION


  • Applying liquid foundation only where needed and then setting with powder is a good way to avoid looking too chalky or made up.
  • Liquid foundations are better as they give good coverage, more controlled in application and give play time for the user to blend in before the foundation dries. It also gives a dewy finish that is radiant and flawless. Liquid foundations come in various textures with mica particles to oil absorbing silicones and are the most versatile cosmetic products in the industry.
  • Use powder foundations only if you have a very oily skin or for touch ups as they are very difficult to control while applying. You never get a powder foundation right as it is also applied more or applied less. Please remember powder foundations can go horribly cakey and can be very drying for dry skins.
  • An ideal foundation application should enable the foundation to disappear in the skin and add radiance. It should not be obvious that the foundation is on but the skin should look better.
  • You don't have to apply a thick foundation to look good. Nowadays the better formulations in the market look better when applied less and blend like second skin.
  • If you have a blemished skin or freckles, never apply a very thick layer of foundation to cover it up. This can give a masked look and look very artificial on the skin. Instead I'd advice applying a sheer foundation all over the face and then using a heavy duty concealer or treatment concealer on the freckles, pigmentation or blemishes respectively. Set the whole think with a minuscule layer of translucent powder to set the whole thing and see miracles happen.
  • Tinted moisturizers are a hybrid between skin care and makeup and are fantastic for work as it does not look heavy. They are readily available in market but if you want to have DIY tinted moisturizer, mix equal parts of an oil free moisturizer, oil free sunscreen and oil free foundation and get it done at home. The latter is flexible because you have a control over the coverage your tinted moisturizer has to give you.
  • Sometimes models or ladies who have near to flawless skins or actors at Oscars (not in India where people slather hundred layers of foundation to mask their skins) use a tinted moisturizer on cheeks and little bit medium coverage foundation on the T zone, set it with a powder foundation and look radiant the whole day.
  • Never judge how your foundation looks immediately. Let it set with the warmth of your skin and then see. It takes 15 minutes but your foundation does not look the way it was when you applied it. I recommend looking out of the window and then looking back in the mirror. This enables you judge the flaws in your foundation application.
  • I tried this new way of applying foundation the way Pat McGrath had suggested for one of the Calvin Klein RTW collections. She applied a hydrating oil free moisturizer after the entire makeup was done over cheeks and t zone in small stippling strokes. The look of the foundation immediately changed. The models looked more radiant and it gave the look of a transparent blush applied on the skin. The faces reflected just the right amount of light and glowed. To try at home, use Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief over your entire makeup and see the foundation metamorphosing.
  • Dick Page, the artistic director of Shiseido once said that he applies a shimmery foundation like Clarins True Radiance foundation in a crescent shape outside the eye area, on temples going over to cheek bones and sides of the forehead. When light falls over those areas, you can see a softer finish and can look radiant without too much of highlighting.
  • If you want to hide pores, use a foundation primer. If you don't have a primer apply the regular foundation in zigzag strokes sideways to fill in the pores. For this always choose a foundation that does not clog pores.


HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATION


  • After choosing the appropriate foundation texture and color that goes on your skin, there are several ways of applying foundation to get a desired finish.
  • Ideally start from the forehead, blending the liquid foundation upwards and outwards to make it disappear in the hair line. Then dot some foundation on nose and sides of the nose and blend. Dot foundation over the cheeks and blend it sideways and downwards to avoid settling the liquid foundation under facial hair. Apply foundation under eyes and sometime over the eye lid. This gives you an idea of amount of concealer to be used. Sometimes you may not even need a concealer. Apply foundation on the jaw line and blend it into the neck downwards. I never suggest applying liquid foundation over the neck as there are chances that it would crack and stain the clothes.
  • The biggest mistake women make is not using a translucent powder to set the foundation. Because of this the liquid foundation does not last longer and creases into the wrinkle.
  • To apply foundation you can use a foundation brush with natural or synthetic bristles, fluffy blender brushes, dual fiber brushes or even fingers depending on convenience and budget.
  • For powder foundations or mineral foundations, apply them in small round strokes to get a better blend.


FOUNDATION MYTHS AND MISTAKE FIXERS


  • The right formulation will not make you look bad, so choose and invest wisely.
  • When you choose the best suitable foundation, try not changing it until it is discontinued or you have changed your skin color drastically.
  • Don't try to look pink when you are not. In the path towards looking pink, women apply foundations and go ashy. You have to look beautiful and not like a BLACK & WHITE person in the colorful world.
  • Don't choose a foundation to look fair. Accept what god has given you and try to enhance it and not change it. You don't want to move around and make a fool of yourself.
  • Apply foundation wisely and don't look like you have dipped yourself in foundation. You may feel glamorous from inside but people around you would be disgusted looking at you from outside.


Makeup is to make your individual identity and not its own. So try to get your own……..




Till then,


Ciao

PS

To learn more on foundation application please read

http://www.makeupsense.com/en/face/foundation-application/

Source of image is also from the above site.Its a great learning experience.

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