Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Rising from the DARK.....



                                     Image Courtesy:  Bobbi Brown Cosmetics


This is a part of my beloved "Newly Found Freshness" series and it highlights dark circles. Though the title of the article is very "Voldemort" like from Harry Potter, he did have dark circles due to being more evil, less sleep and diurnal body changes and also etting stressed and cribbing about Harry Potter.


 
Jokes apart, dark circles is a concern and the reason our face looks tired and lost. Its not an easy affair to conceal them and there are many trial and error methods available in the market to conceal dark circles.

 
HOW DO I GET THEM?

 
Dark circles are usually the veins that are seen through the translucent under eye skin and there are plethora of reasons for that too happen. Btw under eye circles go hand in hand with wrinkles, crepe-y appearance and puffiness. I'd list some of the most common reasons that I see;

 
Less sun protection and under eye area thinning

 
  • Hereditary factors
  • Mechanical trauma to the under eye area due to rubbing, harsh eye makeup removal, excessive yawning, inadequate blinking of eyes etc.
  • Sleep and sleep related disorders. Excessive sleeping causes under eye puffiness while insomnia causes venous blood pooling and enhances dark circles.
  • Chronic systemic diseases especially heart and kidney diseases and even cancer chemotherapies.

  
WHAT DO I DO?

 
Its easy to get under eye concerns and happen in a jiffy but it makes you paranoid and enhances dark circles when you try methods that will reduce dark circles. Also to know, "AS YOU AGE YOUR UNDER EYE CONCERNS INCREASE AND ARE IRREVERSIBLE TILL YOU GO FOR A SURGICAL INTERVENTION." That doesn't mean you give up because we give up too soon.

  
First of all avoid the factors that cause under eye circles and concentrate on the modifiable factors. Use a rich emollient eye cream in the night, hydrating enough but not so rich as well as it would weigh down the eye area. See the climate and choose the cream, lightest being for the summers and richer ones for winters. You can also use your daily moisturizer as a base in the under eye area and drag a bit of your sunscreen too.

  

For concealers and concealer application , please read my earlier blog post HERE. Though its just a guide to concealer I'm sure you will find some valuable information there. Well concealers are not only the quickest options to tackle dark circles but also on a long run improvise the under eye area by forming an extra layer of protection.

 

CORRECT then CONCEAL?

 

 Dark circles could be of various varieties right from taupe brown under eye circles, to caramel colored ones, to deep bluish and purple ones. What do correctors do here? A corrector aka color corrector creates a barrier in between your skin and concealer showing the true side of the concealer while blocking the color of the undertone that shows through the concealer. It will be easy to understand in the further course of the article. Correctors are formulated to act as under eye brighteners than concealers. We are only covering dark circles here.

 

 FAIR

 

 Pink or light peach corrector with an appropriate colored concealer.

 
MEDIUM

 

Peachy to apricot colored correctors with appropriate colored concealer

 

DARK

 

Apricot to golden orange correctors with appropriate colored concealer.

 
Said this, let's see how we can correct the under eye area.


I love brands that make them like Kryolan, DermaColor, Makeup Forever and also Inglot and MAC. The orange concealer of MAC is a staple. Also internationally try out Josie Maran Cosmetics, Benefit, Tarte and Stila as they have really good shades for our skins too.

                                     Image Courtesy: - Bobbi Brown Cosmetics


HOW TO USE CORRECTORS

Prep and prime your skin and under eye area. Apply foundation everywhere else excluding the eye area to judge how much concealing you need. Use a foundation brush for sheer coverage. Take a bit of corrector on the back of your hand and warm it up with a concealer brush. Apply it only and only in the areas that need to be corrected. Like for eg you have bluish discoloration in the inner corners then your corrector just goes there otherwise you'll end up looking weird if you apply in the area that does not need correction. Pat and smoothen out the color corrector working with very less product and building it in layers if required. Then use a concealer that exactly matches your skin and tone or a little lighter concealer for brightening up. Layer your veil of foundation over it.


WHAT IF I DONT WANT COLOR CORRECTORS?

Its ok if you don't want to use these tricky color correctors. Just start with a slightly darker than your skin concealer to hide horrible dark circles and then layer with a lighter concealer. Stay away from too much of concealing as sometimes it looks even artificial.


COLORS CONSCIOUSNESS AND OTHER MAKEUP TECHNIQUES


Ladies with dark circles stay away from dark matte colors if you don't want to conceal; especially purples and navy blues. Go for brighter shimmery liners on the upper lids and mascara only on the top lashes.

Stick with lipstick colors that flatter your natural lip color and keep the makeup fresh and dewy without any masquerade.



Please share your opinions and let me if there was anything that could be added in this article. Btw finding your favorite color corrector and concealer is your own discretion although I'd have apost dedicated to that too.





Till then,



Ciao

4 comments:

  1. Hi Neeraj,
    Very detailed and helpful. I have taupy dark circles under my eyes. I use gel based concealer from Eve Pearl. It's Salmon concealer range from EP in shade 'dark'. It's a peachy shade and covers well. I use it every single day and it glides on very smoothly. I have also used it in every single post in my blog. Do you have any suggestions on the concealer / shade / coverage for me. You may have to see my pictures in the blog, if possible for you. Your opinion/ advise is more than welcome. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  2. i have this is CC and blue and purple shades are lying ideal..can u tell me how we use them on different skin tone?

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi ..........

    @ Eesha.u have the best concealer available in the market..Yet u can try Ellis Faas products since they are amazing.Dont own one but soon shall buy something. YOu can also try Stila..

    @ Anamika.......I am so glad to hear from .Rashmi always praises u and now i know why..

    the purple and blue CC are for brightening the skin which is pale and sallow........please use it wisely and well coz it can get ashy.....

    ReplyDelete
  4. Neeraj i want to learn how to use my MUFE concealer palette .. pls help me with that some day :D this was helpful and am def. going to bookmark this post

    ReplyDelete

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