Friday, August 12, 2011

My Makeup Class.....Foundations PART 2

Foundations are supposed to be your best buddies in makeup. Just like your best friend understands you, helps you and protects you from trouble, foundation does the same job when it comes to makeup.

Now a days foundations have healing properties and add more to your skin care than makeup creating that bridge in between worlds of skin care and makeup. Imagine peeling an apple makes the soft yellow core go brown. The apple peel plays a vital role in keeping the inside core free from environmental damage and this is what foundations (and primers) do to your skin along with your sunscreen of course.

Applying foundation on a dry rough skin is sure to make your skin look like jackfruit more than an apple due to the foundation sitting on dry scaly skin. Here's a glorified term for this "cakey". Some of the best foundations in the market might be the worst foundation you have ever tried so try and try and try.

Makeup brands create magic with foundations, whipping new textures everyday. From light reflecting, to glowing, to mattifying, to hydrating, to minerals, mineral enriched, anti-acne.......foundations can be found in lots of formulations and every brand has something to offer. I suggest, one must have foundation not only according to the skin type but also climate in which we stay and that will reflect on our makeup routine.

POWDER FOUNDATIONS



Powder foundation have blend of silicones and algae extracts to give the powdery foundation a good medium to adhere to the skin. They are best used for touch ups and quick fixes (even fixing under eye concerns). My motto is to suggest proper ways of application. Unlike using moisturizer before liquid foundations, powder foundations run totally on a different concept. Either you apply it over a liquid foundation or concealer which has some sort of filler or silicone for the product to glide or you use a thin layer of loose powder before application of powder foundation.

I have learnt this from personal experiences. Your favorite powder foundation aka MAC STUDIO FIX POWDER FOUNDATION can go horribly patchy and wrong if used over wet skin (due to moisturization) and give you too much coverage. In such cases, you can use dampened sponge to apply the foundation and make it sheer, but it doesnt work. That puff provided with Studio fix is a harbinger for all the bacteria and micro organisms that you can think of and does not solve any purpose except ruining your makeup and your skin. Powder foundations if gone wrong in shade and application can look like mask and give you that mannequin look. Now brands like Lancome, Christian Dior, Shiseido, Makeup Forever etc also make their own version of powder foundations also known as dual foundations since they can be used wet or dry, but the question is who should use them.

Talking about modern foundation formulas, they are oil free and long wearing. They cover minor blemishes, sun tan, sometimes fading acne marks as well properly and decently. I suggest applying powder foundation with a foundation sponge instead of the puff provided with the compact. Sponges are precise, disposable and do a decent job of spreading the powder foundation reasonably well. Only disadvantage of sponges is they should not be recycled or reused and the latex ones smell horrible. I remember of soaking my sponges in rose water for 4-5 hrs or any natural floral essence water (jasmine, lavender, lemon etc.) and then drying them to get rid of some of the odour, unsuccessfully.



The synthetic foundation brush is useless in this case.What I loved was the "Clinique Powder Foundation Brush" which is fluffy yet has flat sides to apply and spread the foundation evenly and give sheer coverage. Also you can build in certain area where you want extra coverage. Also one can do spot concealing by using a liner or lip brush to apply powder in smaller areas (preferably using a damp brush). For under eye area, you could use large shader brushes that are supposed to be used for highlighting the brow bone. A dome shaped brush with flat top bristles is another amazing brush to buff the product into skin. It fairly does an amazing job in getting the foundation really blended and pushed into skin, looking natural and flawless.


WHO SHOULD USE POWDER FOUNDATIONS?


I dont suggest powder foundations to all as they should not be mistaken with compact pressed powders. There is huge difference in the coverage and if bought wrongly then there is a place for repentance. I suggest ladies with sensitive skin should apply powder foundations for several reasons. The silicone molecules are large so they dont clog pores and keep the skin breathing. The formulas are oil free and non irritating plus lot of pressure is not needed to apply powder foundation. Of course for sensitive skins I suggest softer powder foundation brushes from good brands.

For concerns of rosacea, a yellow based powder foundation goes amazing over a green (mint green) makeup primer. It adds warmth and glow to the skin.


SOME OTHER CAUTIONS


  • Again I repeat, never use powder foundation on wet skin.
  • Never apply cream based blushes or liquid blushes over powder foundation. You may apply a lip and cheek tint though but with lightning fast speed.
  • Always apply shimmery eye products to light up the face. Using too many mattes may make your skin appear dull and sallow. 
  • Never use shimmer based blushers if you have concerns like pigmentation etc that you need to conceal. Shimmer would just highlight the problem even more.
  • Always clean your powder foundation brush as there would be lot of old foundation debris collected on to the brush.

SOME LOVELY POWDER FOUNDATIONS

  1. Clinique Super Powder Double Face Powder
  2. Shiseido, The Makeup Powdery Foundation
  3. Dior Diorskin Nude Natural Glow Loose Powder (its a powder foundation to be applied with the specific brush)
  4. Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay in Place compact
  5. MAC Studio fix powder foundation
  6. Inglot AMC pressed powder
  7. Lancome Dual finish compact

There are many more and I suggest to buy the one that fits your budget and your skin type and of course your life style.

Hope you find this article useful. I have specifically not discussed the good points of powder foundation over liquid as I did not want to put down any product and create confusion. It was just about getting vigilant about applications of these products.

Hope you like it.


Till then,



Ciao

14 comments:

  1. i have been using the mac stdio fix powder fndn since more than two months now....i find it very quick and easy ...i do moisturise 10 mins prior to it...but it hasnt become cakey ...or maybe i cant relaise its caked....i also am usig a mist after application..it helps in settling it down a bit too...

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Dr.Shivani,

    You are moisturizing 10 mins prior dats why.And what tool do u use to apply Studio fix. There are chances when you dont know whether the makeup is looking cakey, you must get urself photographed in day light. The picture shows how heavy the foundation is looking. Do it without flash though, as flash eats up lots of makeup in the picture.

    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I like powder foundations over liquid ones :), but face one big problem, I have round face.. and after using them, I lookk more round :D in photographs :( Any suggestions?

    Currently using Loreal Mineral Foundation

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Divya,

    Not a big fan of that mineral foundation as it has ingredients that are ideally not supposed to be in a mineral foundation. If you feel your face looks too round, one reason is that foundation makes the face look flat and 2 Dimensional. The idea is to apply matte bronzer in the contour areas of the face to add dimensions.

    Shift to tinted moisturizers if u like!

    ReplyDelete
  5. omgod!!thats why i looked so round in my pics...its not the weight then lol...on a more serious note...neeraj i use a kabuki brush to apply it..also am going to see and try the snap walla trick....baghu!!

    ReplyDelete
  6. i have tried two things. when iam stepping out casually, i use my tinted moisturiser and some loose powder or compact. And when i need to look a bit more formal, i try the MAC studio fix after the tinted moisturiser. In the latter my face looks dull and oily. And with adding loose powder it looks like i've added 2 inch makeup. But with just tinted moisturiser i look fresh for a very long time. What am i doing wrong?

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hi Sangs,

    I find Studio fix really heavy and it is specifically not oil free.
    If your face looks oily and dull, try adding an exfoliator into your skin care regimen and see if it does any wonders.
    Instead of adding a lot of loose powder, purchase some blotting papers to blot excess oil.
    They do an amazing job without any makeup build up.!

    ciao

    ReplyDelete
  8. Nice blog! Makeup classes can provide all the lessons you need to be able to satisfy your desire to learn makeup and it will show you how to look your best and also how to apply it yourself, quickly and easily.

    Thanks a lot.

    ReplyDelete
  9. oh gosh neeraj, i just saw ur reply.

    Ok iam guilty of no sincere skin regime. Iam starting now. You have got me curious abt the exfoliator. I have a silly question. I use loreal face wash, works for me but post this how necessary is cleansing and also, when u say exfoliator, should this replace the toner?. And of course the moisturiser is the final step. I use Neutrogena oil free,which has spf 15, should i top it with sunscreen. Oh gosh at a risk of sounding stupid i say this, i still havent been able to decide my skin type..its oily at time, combination and dry at times...how do i decide....

    Simple solution, please visit ur Clinique at inorbit malad, i shall meet and bombard u with these questions and u could help me pick the right products from Clinique.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Sure Sangs.........do come but I work in Clinique in Palladium mall so do see me there..

    Please check my videos too!!

    ReplyDelete
  11. its gonna be a long while for me to travel to palladium neeraj and but will def meet you when iam there in future and let me know in case u pay a visit to malad inorbit...

    ReplyDelete
  12. Very illuminating article doc, I thought it was a breeze but when I'm actually thinking of buying a good non-drugstore foundation I'm able to realize how annoyingly tough this decision is!
    So I've narrowed it down to these for now and I'd love to know your opinion

    I have combination-sensitive skin, acne-prone unfortunately :(

    1)MAC pro longwear
    2)MAC studio fix powder plus fundation
    3)Clinique anti-blemish
    4)Clinique superblend
    5)Any other Clinique-similar-budget foundation you suggest
    Thanks in advance :)

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi Keerthi,

    Thanks for liking the articles. Anti blemish is ur good friend to so stay with this foundation only until u have a color mismatch crisis. MAC Pro long wear is good and thankfully my skin is loving it even more day by day. U will like the coverage.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank you so much for the super quick response! :)
    I'll check the shades out, the MAC store is just across the Clinique counter so I'll run across and check out the Pro longwear in case this doesnt match...Thank you :)

    ReplyDelete

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