Sunday, February 5, 2012

Makeup Masterclass : Creating Classic Eyes

Eyes are windows of the soul (my spectacles would be window panes) and adorning them has been an ancient culture. Eye makeup has been an important step in one's beauty regime. Bold, bright and beautiful eyes are very alluring and enchanting and trust me anyone can do them with some basic techniques.
Today's post is all about knowing certain areas and also about making an illusion of bigger eyes (even if you dont have them.) and how to create this perfect, classic, contoured eye. We have read a lot of theory in innumerable makeup books but this is my own idea (of course it has a lot of inspiration behind it.)


This is my eye. If analyzed it has a basic shape, little lid space and quite tiny. As a rule dark recedes while light brings feature forwards. So to make my eyes look bigger I need to play with colors to create a perfect harmony and make my eyes look bigger.


This is my eye too, its just that it looks complete, better and the shape looks enhanced. All this was possible because of smart placement of right colors, deepening of the crease, curling and darkening of the lashes and something mostly forgotten is shaping and grooming the brows.

Did you know different parts of your eyelid?


With upper and lower lids already known, these are some of the parts that one must know,
  1. Inner corners, always highlight (until u have wide set eyes) to open your eyes awake.
  2. True lid. This is actually the fleshy part of the upper lid and generally a place where lot of mid tone eyeshadows go, whatever textures they have.
  3. Crease is the area in between the flesh and the bone. Its actually a hollow or a depression. Deepening the crease creates a 3D effect and makes eyes appear bigger. I always prefer using warmer browns to create a natural looking crease as cooler tones can look ashy.
  4. Brow bone is not be mistaken as brows. No one highlights brows. This is actually a bony area that on highlighting not only brings life to eyes but also creates an illusion of perfectly arched and groomed brows.
  5. Is the outer corners which are generally to be darkened and smoked out to create an illusion of defined eyes. Lifting the eye liner in the ends gives a mini-lift without surgery.
  6. Upper lash line is always a different part and has got nothing to do with the eye lid. There's where a pencil liner usually goes. Darkening the lash line creates an illusion of fuller lashes. This is also called as tightlining.
  7. Inner rims of lower lids are different from the lower lash lines. Darkening the inner rims can make eyes look smaller but lining the lower lash line with a darker color can actually make them look bigger.
The next question that comes to our mind is, how to find my real eye crease?

I used to have this issue as my eyes are very small and beady. Hence to make them appear bigger I needed to darken above the crease and I never knew where my crease was, until one day I found it!! EUREKA!! To find out your crease for the first time, apply a thin line with a liquid liner on your lash line (not eye lid) and before it dries up look upwards. That small line that is create on the groove of your eye lid is your crease. Some have a bigger crease, some have smaller crease and some just dont have a real crease (also called monolid). Ideally to create an illusion of bigger eyes (for smaller eyes) one mush darken above that line (imagine it in your head later on) while highlighting on the brow bone and placing an iridescent light reflective eyeshadow on the lids.



This is where your darker color goes.........Btw darkening the crease is also known as contouring as it helps accentuate the natural contours or depth of the eye lid.
Placing a darker color on the outer corner and lighter color in the inner corners helps create an illusion of bigger eyes provided the crease is accentuated.

In the next post I shall put pictures of how the crease is created and how to do classic eye makeup. (Doing this as the post may get really long.)
Hope you enjoyed the first part of this post.


Till then,

Ciao


Thanks for reading my blog. I don't give 100% on the authenticity of the content here and it is subject to change without prior notice. Please read the disclaimer for any questions.

22 comments:

  1. woowwwww this is an amzing post dr neeraj..at last i too found my crease!!!!!!

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    1. LOL...dats good to know...did it make ur job of eye makeup simpler...do wait for the next post!

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  2. great post as always :)thanx for detailed defining

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  3. wow! thts so much information. :) Even i have small lid space and applying a liner makes it look even small.Will keep in mind the highlighting technique for inner corners now.

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    Replies
    1. Do keep me posted on this. Trust me, its so depressing to be deprived of colors that we like sometimes...these little tricks would do wonders.

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  4. oh what a treat!!! awesome masterclass, way to go!

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  5. Soo informative, I was hooked to this series as soon as I read Makeup Masterclass....cant wait for the rest! :) :)

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    1. Thanks Keerti...there are more editions to come...Was wondering what should i post on and this topics came to my mind and I wanted to do them since a long time!

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  6. Amazing post! I was waitin for such a post....it's really useful for learners like me actually who keeps doubting whether i've gotten the crease extended to the right length or not...I cant wait fro the next post...I shud prepare u tho...M gona have loadsa doubts and bug u like crazy :))

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    Replies
    1. u can ask me whatever doubts u have!! Welcome to Beauty Traveller!

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    2. Thankies :) Glad t be here!!! :)

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  7. Amazing article Dr Neeraj and its so helpful! but doubt though..I too have small eyes and they are quite inside if you know what i mean..what can i do to make them look big and outside? also i do have quite darkc ircles and dark eyelids so would adding a dark color in the crease make the eyes look even more dull and tired?

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    1. Thanks a lot PArita...that article is coming soon...Lemme get some one who looks similar to u and I will try to post a look!

      Ciao

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  8. Oh but you should also tell na what to do for bigger eyes...I have saucer eyes, and everyone just keeps telling how to make eyes bigger..no no no..that won't work for me at all :D :D So I demand that you write some ideas for the big-eyed humans too :D :D :D Okay I don't demand..I ask you very politely..please do..whenever you get the time :)

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    Replies
    1. LOL...thanks RADS....thats coming too...just looking out for a similar looking model!

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  9. EXCELLENT Neeraj ... this is so inspiring article and am gonna keep a bookmark on this :D :D

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    1. Thanks a lot Rashmi. I am so happy that u liked my effort. There's more to come in this series. Ciao

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  10. this is super good!!! and useful!! keep em coming

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  11. a masterclass indeed, ur detailing is very helpful

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