Saturday, March 3, 2012

Makeup Masterclass : Flawless Spring sheen

Looking fresh and even toned is a sign of healthy skin at any age and for any skin color. Adding a bit of sheen on the skin to create a lovely dewy effect has become very easy these days thanks to all the wonderful brands that bring out their own version of unique color blends and oil free formulas.Once upon a time, a cream blush could be used only by ladies with a dry skin but today with changed times there are super-easy to use oil free formulas that can make ones with oilier skin look slick..

Makeup artists like Pat McGrath (@patmcgrathreal) or Diane Kendal or our very own Lisa Eldridge always talk about dewy gorgeous fresh looking skin. Its that lovely glow that we want and that radiance we want to emanate and this masterclass is all about getting that glowing skin this Spring 2012.

I also want to clear a doubt of how oily this can look for ones with oily skins? I would say, use it on areas of the face that are not oily and find your best friend in blotting paper box.......Anyways lets see how to get a dewy glowy fresh skin irrespective of your skin type..

I want to divide the masterclass into 2 parts. First part which could be a step by step application to get that perfect glowing skin and Second part is little tricks for different skin types (in another post of course). Also I would put in product recommendations in between (or may suggest the products I use).


Valentino Spring couture 2012


Always prime the skin. Skin primers are known to do wonders on whatever your skin type is. Estee Lauder's Illuminating makeup base is very good for a bit drier skins and Mattifying base good for oily skins. For a soft velvety feel I also love Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting touch and YSL Matte Touch Primer. 
Basically any primer for that matter creates a silicone mesh on the skin and prevents foundation from coming in direct contact. This prevents oxidation of the foundation pigments and improves the wear. Also are available primers for refining the texture of pores and helps prevent Peau D'Orange skin.

Begin with a pea sized amount and work it from the middle of the face towards outside. I love to use a foundation brush to do this and have a trace of that primer on my foundation. Also one can use complexion perfectors like YSL Teint Parfait or MAC Strobe cream or Clarins Instant Light Complexion Perfector to create a dewy glow under or over foundation.

Step 2

Select a medium coverage foundation in whichever brand you like. For spring I am falling in love again with Bourjois Healthy mix foundation for a dewy finish. Long lasting performers call for MAC Pro longwear foundation SPF 10 and all who can get would love the new Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua compact foundation. I have been eyeing on the Chanel Perfection Lumiere too for its ultra flawless finish and answer to loss of their Pro lumiere foundation.

Dot the foundation on 5 points on the face and spread with a stippling brush or duo fibre brush to blend it into nothingness. Then just add another layer of foundation where needed. Lets not over conceal this spring and keep everything looking healthy. MAC Senior Makeup artist Chantal Miller talks about using light strokes of concealer to create a pixelated finish. (It looks like a bird is pecking some concealer on troubled spots). I recommend using MAC Studio fix concealer in the tiniest of strokes.

Step 3 

Dont forget under eye concealer. Used a liquid or a creamy concealer and buff into the eye area. You need to blend thoroughly and then use a fan brush to gently dust loose powder to set the concealer. Sometimes correctors are good to take care of stubborn dark circles or pigmentation but I would restrict their use to the least.

I have also been fascinated by Stick foundations again and Shiseido stick foundation has always been in the corner of my mind. These are multi purpose products and 5 magical strokes (I used them some years back on Lisa Haydon) gives a magical complexion.

Step 4                                    

Powdering only if necessary. Here I mean using translucent powder. These powders can take away all the shine and dewiness of an oil free foundation so I want restrict them to the areas that are in a bad need of these. Stay away from Silica based transparent powders if you have got photographed wearing one. They create the most unflattering white cast and with shimmer and shine on your face you'd live a day in the life of a ghost. I like my staple Clinique Blended Face Powder and Kryolan Transparent Powder and haven't thought of any for a while although Revlon Photoready compact looks quite interesting.

Again avoid the cheek apples while powdering as this is one of the area any skin type lady would love to explore and create a youthful dew.

Step 5

The most important part. Sometimes highlighting is the best form of contouring and oil free liquids and creams create perfect contours. So do those finely milled mineral enriched powders. I am in love with my NARS Orgasm Illuminator (you can buy others like Copacabana), Shiseido Accentuating Stick in Glistening Flush (a staple in my kit since long), Becca Shimmering skin perfector (Thanks to Lisa Eldridge) and MAC blush in Gana (limited edition ivory golden beige). 

To create a dewy glow apply any highlighting product you like in a crescent shape manner on the apples of cheeks towards temples. The interplay of light in these areas gives the skin a soft focus while eliminating any harsh contours on the face. This trick is good enough for someone who has an amazing bone structure and also to someone who hasn't. Highlighters like these reflect light in many directions thence creating soft focus. Pearlised pigments in these formulations (generally MICA) add incredible dewiness without looking oily.

Btw one can also highlight T zone which I believe is optional especially if you are staying in hot and humid regions. Another place I like to highlight is inner corners of the eyes as it opens them up as quick as lightning and also above cupid's bow.

This is what has to be done generally. This SPRING although my favorite highlighters are opalescent pinks, light duo chrome corals, soft ivory golds, mother of pearl and light champagne beiges. These colors when intermixed with your favorite blusher or bronzer gives a sophisticated sheen on the face that catches light perfectly when photographed or in certain lights. I would advice seeing the lighting that you are in and opt for warm or cool colors accordingly.

Some inspirational pictures from from the Spring 2012 catwalks...

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Balmain Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Rochas Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Rag & Bone Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Rag & Bone Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Versace Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Proenza Schouler Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED (other than mentioned)
  • Clinique Even Better Makeup SPF 15
  • Inglot YSM compact
  • Inglot liquid blushes and illuminators
  • MUFE Uplight Face Illuminizer
  • Estee Lauder Double-wear Stay in place concealer
  • MAC Moisturecover concealer
  • Clinique Freshbloom all over color in Peony
  • Clarins Beauty Flash balm
  • YSL Touche Eclat
  • Christian Dior shimmer powder in Rose and Amber Diamond
  • Guerlain Meteorites
  • Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Illuminating powder
  • MAC blush in Springsheen
  • MAC Mineralize skin finish in Light flush (pink bronze duo chrome)
  • Chanel Tweed Blush in Rose Subtil
  • Lancome La Roserai Illuminating Smooth powder (new launch)

There are many more and I would love to hear your favorites. Do share with us....

Till then,


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  1. Replies
    1. Thanks a lot Eve-o-lution...lemme know if u tried out any of these looks or tips...

  2. yahoooooo!!!! i love this post!! you are creating magic in your posts. thanks so much for putting this up.

    1. Thanks a lot Coral crue..I am so glad u liked the post! Wrote it in 10 mins literally and 5 mins for searching pics.

    2. wow!!! you are really an expert, i would have taken ages to figure things out, ofcourse I am no makeup pro like you are. Kudos to your blog.

  3. Great Article neeraj! :D

    A request: can you pls do an article on must - try or must-have products from kryolan? I can't find reviews online and I'm fascinated by the brand.. but I'm not sure if it is meant only for MUAs or it has nice stuff for consumers as well..


    1. Thanks Tanveer...actually I am planning to do a post on essentials from Kryolan...And trust me its a brand for everyone but its just a little underestimated due to the distributorship and Bollywood bandwagon.
      Shall do a post soon!

  4. awesome post!!!!very helpful!

  5. Very very helpful post Dr...i too use the bourjois healthy mix and finish of with kryolan loose kryloan pan as so mch product that m tired using it now...i simply can neva finish my loose powders ever...m so fickle with them! :)

    1. same story much of product that it just doesnt get over.

    2. i so wish they'd sell lesser product for lesser cost too...then it wud make so much more guilt over abandoning products..

    3. I got a smaller version of their huge loose powder...which one r u talking about?

    4. i have the kryolan wala...the smaller tub ad i also hav a sue devitt one...gosh....considering the fact that a little goes a long way, the qty is quite alot!

    5. the small tubs are crazy and they just dont finish for aeons..

  6. Hiya Neeraj,
    Lovely post,thanx a ton for all the awesome tips, I too had been hunting for a good highlighter n on consulting SA from MAC was told they would highlight flaws and dark spots but I was too persistent to give up n finally found Revlon Colourstay Mineral Finish Powder, when applied alone it looks whitish but top it with a blush n blend n walla it gives me that dewy finish that I love :) I've used this in this pic do lemme know ur views bout the same, TC

    1. Thanks Priya.....thats a lovely look......the best highlighters I love are mentioned in the post. Do try and see if you like one of them!

  7. thank you so much for wonderful tips Neeraj ... am bookmarking this and making my list :D :D

  8. Excellent, simply excellent
    this is masterclass indeed!!!!!!


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