Friday, October 26, 2012

The Bride Prep



This article would be a great help or a lovely guide to whoever is a makeup artist (whether established or amateur) or someone interested in helping their friends getting ready to be the most wonderful brides out there. In keeping with the traditions and cultures that we have honed and worshiped over ages, "Marriages" are no less than festivals. All the lovely decor, a holiday destinations, scrumptious feasts and celestial looking bride and groom are all part of some amazing memories to cherish.

Ideally, wedding season just happens once and this is the only time when the bride must look the best. This is not just to stand out in the crowd but also to keep these memoirs locked up as photographs that even the grandchildren should be in awe of.

Prepping the bride is one of the crucial aspects of the wedding. If you have seen ladies who look garish and vamp like than celestial divas and angels then its the makeup artist that has to be blamed. Hairstylists really manage their work very well and even if anything goes wrong or weird it could be considered as a new style that is invented usually for the bride. But with makeup that is not the scene.

Makeup blunders are truly unforgivable and there is no fix to it unless the makeup is removed completely (which is not possible in certain settings and constrained time frames). Everyone may be aware of these makeup blunders and they have no one to blame except the makeup artist for most of the times. Taking this into consideration I am writing this list of must haves one must gather in their kit for a better result. The products mentioned may not be cost effective for all but I am sure this article would act as a template for anyone who wishes to or has newly entered the bride business.

Keep reading after the jump break....

THE BASE

Here's where the makeup goes wrong. The bride and her mother makes an excruciating demand of looking fair (generally happens in parts of India where fairness is a boon the girls ask from GOD). The concept of looking fair is a result of creating a gray ashy toned ugly zombie like complexion that shows very well on camera. For anyone who understands this must also understand that camera unlike human eye captures only what it is made to capture. Human eye is trained by the brain to ignore the flaws in someone by the ambience and the aura created by the surrounding but camera doesn't understand this intelligence. Even with the smartest use of filters and lenses and most expensive photographic equipment, a white ashy face cannot be ignored or cannot slip from the dreadful pinhole of the camera.

In such cases the theory of color correction comes into picture and color correction using makeup products is the ultimate thing one can do to waver away dull ashy complexions. For a girl who is on the darker spectrum of skin color, a cognitive therapy given by the makeup artist would make them understand the hazards of looking 'fair' in front of the devilish camera and devil's apprentice 'the flash'.




Must have foundations that save life in these situations are :

  1. Kryolan Supra foundation palette - it goes without saying to be the best in the industry. Those who claim of not using these palettes are super rich artists or in denial
  2. Kryolan TV paint series palette - an elder cousin of the supra foundation palette and a mini version of the famed Kryolan tv paint sticks, these are those thick grease paint long lasting foundations that can help even the Devil himself. With the coverage like a dark cloud hiding the moon, these foundations immediately destroy the appearance of blemishes, darkness and discolorations to the greatest extent imaginable. Plus they have color correctors incorporated in the palette make everything look smooth and angelic.
  3. Derma color series palette - another camouflage palette made by Kryolan. However this product is a debatable one for me as I have a better option.
  4. Shiseido Dual Balancing foundation SPF 15 - its one of the oldest foundations in the Shiseido line since Tom Pecheux reigned and it has been my favorite all time foundation for bridals. I would call it as the most underrated foundation ever and an unsung hero. When used over a primer, the longevity of this foundation is as good as any other competitor foundations and looks extremely flattering in the camera.
  5. 4 liquid foundations that one can easily opt for when doing bridal makeup are Chanel Perfection Lumiere, MAC Pro Longwear foundation, Lancome Teint Idole Ultra 24 hr lasting foundation and newer entry being Dior Forever Flawless Perfection Fusion Wear foundation SPF 25. Even with SPF 25 this foundation does not put a greyish cast in camera and looks incredible dewy and glowing even under a powder.
The primers that could easily slip into the makeup artists kit for bridals are ;
  1. Shiseido Refining Primer - most cost effective and very good perfomance
  2. Smashbox Photofinish Light primer - good but availability is the question
  3. Stila One Step Primer and Corrector - is the most amazing one but very difficult to get. I get mine from the Beautiful store in Andheri.
  4. Clarins Instant Smooth Perfect Touch - the make the most incredible mattifying primer ever.
  5. Makeup Forever HD Primer - they have a wonderful array of correctors that do a very good job in hiding flaws better.
The concealers that passed my approval are ;
  1. MAC Studio Fix Concealer + Orange corrector to kill the grey tones at times
  2. Kryolan Supra foundation - imagine the thickness of this foundation
  3. Shiseido Natural Finish Creamy concealer - does a very good job if applied properly
  4. Dior Sculpt concealer - not many shades though
All reflective concealers and stuff does go in the cupboard to rest for a while.

For setting up the makeup with powder I just love Kryolan Transparent Powders. They come in a lot of colors and really help the makeup look satiny and amazing. The other powder that is truly divine is the Guerlain Loose Powder but its ultra expensive and so is Chanel Poudre Universelle.

In experimental phase is the Kryolan Ultra Setting Spray and the Derma Color makeup setting spray. They are known to make the makeup last very long and be almost transfer proof. I will check on that and update on my Twitter.

THE FRAME

Framing the face with right contouring and highlighting brings out the best of the facial features and hides the things that waver the face from looking chiseled and sculpted oval shape.
Few products that I love in the Framing section are as follows: -

MASCARAS

  1. Lancome Hypnose Waterproof mascara - to avoid mascara running along with tears.
  2. Bourjois Volume Glamour MAX mascara for a killer volume and no dent in the budget.
  3. Clinique High Impact Curling mascara for fluttery lashes
BRONZERS and CONTOURING POWDERS
  1. Benefit Hoola Bronzer - there is no beat to this universally flattering cocoa color.
  2. Clinique True Bronzer and Almost Bronzer for soft sculpting.
  3. I loved the Shiseido Multi shade enhancers but they have unfortunately been discontinued so there's no point brooding about it.
  4. Dior Nude Tan Enhancers and Guerlain Terracotta Bronzers are just kept for celebs (if I get any).
HIGHLIGHTERS

Its good to use highlighters but very important to use the ones that give a subtle glow than a strong cast.
My favorites are ;
  1. Estee Lauder Platinum Powder Highlighter
  2. MAC Blush in Gana
  3. Benefit HighBeam and MoonBeam Highlighters
  4. Shiseido Accentuating Sticks in Glistening Flush
Sometimes I use eyeshadows like Ricepaper or Nylon from MAC with a fan brush to add a highlighter (carefully).

THE COLOR

Adding the right colors are as important as anything. This should coordinate with clothes, overall look of the bride and correspond to the lighting. For eg. in eye makeup if you are contouring the crease, use a warmer brown color to carefully contour as the coolness of taupes can translate grey in the camera. Of course matching undertones is equally important. 

In case you are not sure of anything and not liking anything that the makeup artist has done in your bridal trial then stick to neutral and flesh toned colors. With such colors in any form whether matte, satin, lustre, shimmer, frost or glitter, you can never go wrong. Choose soft shimmers over frosted eyeshadows as the former give a very sophisticated look while the latter add a dramatic edge to the makeup. For eyeshadows I choose neutrals but when given a chance play with purples, blues and greens. Pink eyeshadow in specifically not a bridal color and can look scary at times...don't say you don't know now.

Lipsticks and blush tones should coordinate. Its good to avoid lilac or purple based tones as they can look quite scary in the pictures. Same goes with taupes as they give a very zombie like look to the face.

EYE SHADOWS
  1. MAC makes the best shadows that be stored in 15 palettes or used individually
  2. Inglot has a good dupe option to MAC and with the Freedom system you feel a certain sense of inner freedom in making your kit.
  3. Shiseido and Dior makes lovely but expensive eyeshadows that I love and so does Lancome
  4. Urban Decay palettes are most handy due to the presence of lot of options for makeup.
EYE LINERS

Only blacks and browns work the best. Bourjois is unsurpassed when comes to liners but there is Lancome in the line too and so is Chanel with amazing array of liners. Bobbi Brown makes the most stunning gel liners and can be sought from Beautiful store or from anyone who's flying.

BLUSHERS
  1. Kryolan tops my list of blushers for making the most pigmented ones that with a gentle touch can brighten up the face.
  2. MAC follows with some cult favorite colors
  3. I use the rare Scott Barnes blush trios and also use Christian Dior blushers as they last really long.
  4. BH cosmetics Jenni Rivera palette is one of the best bridal palettes ever with some perfect colors
LIPS



Anything that is long lasting and goes in between lunches and buffets and everything oily and sweet. Most promising till date for me has been Max Factor Lipfinity although they tend to lack certain colors that I really like. Matte lipsticks from MAC when applied in 4-5 layers can still be very promising and so from L'Oreal. Others long lasting products are namesake and its a pain to keep touching up. I love the Rimmel ones too for they r highly and incredibly pigmented,

Kryolan boasts of small bottle called Lip Fix which keeps lipsticks in place. Thats the one I am going to get for my kit soon. A celebrity makeup artist once told me to line the lips and fill them completely with 2-3 layers of a matte lip liner from either Bourjois or Bobbi Brown and then apply some gloss on top. Its another trick that I have to try too.

Bridals can be chaotic if right products are not used. A small suggestion for all of them is to really take care of their skin....skin care is the utmost step to look the best during your wedding day.

Soon shall follow posts on bridal looks so do keep reading!!!

Till then,

Ciao
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19 comments:

  1. Hey! so glad I came by! The post was very informative .... but a few pictures explaining the colors, styles would have been nice

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    1. Thanks for the feedback Nirvana.Been a bit busy with work n all but soon shall update my pictures of the kit for better reference. I am so happy u liked the article.Thanks

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  2. Hii Dr. Neeraj !! You wrote a fab article!! I am definietly book marking this !! Thanks :)

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    1. And yes, I majority own kryolan stuffs , nothing can beat that.. They arent overly expensive and provide amazing results as mostly common peoples dont own a clear skin like the models in makeup industry !! :)

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    2. Kryolan has some amazing products. Wat r ur favs? Thanks for liking the article....

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  3. superbly written... i am already married but bookmarking this post.... i eagerly await all such articles of yours... buying the kryolan translucent powder was one of the best decisions i made.. :)

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    Replies
    1. Thank u soooo much. Ya Kryolan hooked me on to their powders literally. Can't do without them!!

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  4. now this is a super informative article!!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks a lot Jasmine.. So happy u liked it.

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  5. so nice to read ur post again. as usuall this one is also fab. i just wanted to know where to buy kryolan products from .

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    Replies
    1. Thanks a lot Rachna. I buy Kryolan from their store in oshiwara, andheri

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  6. Hands down the best post on bridal makeup choices in blogosphere. you've got everything covered, Neeraj. Awesome. :)

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    1. Thanks a lot Cora crue. Ur comments r very encouraging.

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  7. Hey !! My fav is their kryolan supra color foundations , blushes and their lip palletes ! :)

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    Replies
    1. Mine too. Such amazing products at such affordable rates and great performers.

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  8. Uq ofeb ew zizumeda gokoke bavularim Bali mojo anilud gibu rozozej mofa pigezasuj. Ahuhuc vot usipex watunaraz egebufa bege an amil poxa e obepadiwi toqameh.
    Yanatodon omogu job luhinifiya ... Bali mojo

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  9. Dr Neeraj...very very informative article!!!Am bookmarking this!!!!

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    Replies
    1. Thank u so much Smitha. Happy u liked it!!

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  10. where can i get krylon products in delhi

    ReplyDelete

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